Went to France on holiday in 08 with family with a day watching a stage in mind.
Booked the accommodation pretty centrally thinking that there would be no issues with getting to see a stage pass somewhere close to us during the two weeks that we were there. When we got there and I started consulting the maps I then realised what a big country France is and that the closest the Tour got was a 3.1/2hr drive away...
We went to see Stage 6 Aigurande
Super-Besse and decided to watch from the Cat 2 climb above Mont Dore. We set off early along the toll road but to my horror our exit was closed when we got there as the Tour passed beneath it! There were no warnings until we actually got to the turn off. It was then a desperate 10mile drive to the next exit then a mad dash across country through a bit of a hill pass until we got to the race route on the hill and then struggled to find anywhere to park. It's at this point that you see all the painted names on the road and you start getting a bit excited.
The race is well organised (obviously) and the roads are closed very early so make sure you get to where you want to get to in plenty of time. Even though this was a relatively tame 'mountain' on an incosequential stage and we wasn't anywhere near the finish is was very busy but we managed to get a bit of grass by the side of the road to put our travel blanket down and have a picnic.
The French have got this bit well sussed. It is a big family outing and the camping tables, table cloths, chairs & umbrellas were out as they sat eating a sit down meal with wine and food whilst the tour could be heard in the background on a radio. Even better were the camper vans with the side sun canopies extended with the families sat in the shade with the TV live coverage through the open door.
By contrast we just sat with no idea what was happening during the day in the sun waiting for the tour to arrive. It was a very hot day, if it had been raining then at this point it would have been a bit of a nightmare.
Eventually after a number of hrs of the offical tour mercahndisers selling their wares the caravan arrived. This is a number of sponsored floats that throw some freebies out to the waiting crowd. This bit was quite pleasant and was enjoyed most by the rest of the family!
After a wait for about a further hr the police motorbikes arrived followed by a multitude of other race vehicles and cars. You would not believe how many cars are involved. Then a small breakaway went past in a second, followed by a few others, then the peleton, then Cavendish hiding amongst the team cars going up the hill, then there were a few more stragglers then a load more cars carrying bikes and that was it. It litrally took about 3mins total for everyone of the riders to get past and it all happened so quick that it was very hard to distingush any of the favourites from the peleton, although I did manage to get a few staps of Cav as he passed. It is just a wall of colour. So we walked to the car and went home!
I've got to say that I enjoyed it but it was a bit of an anti-climax. Without any commentary you basically sit at the roadside bored for 4hrs then there is 3mins of confusing activity then you go home.
Holiday over I came home and continued to watch on the TV and took the decision to take my daughter to the final in Paris. We flew out early in the morning returning home late at night. We got to Paris about 3hrs before the tour was due to arrive in a blistering hot day. We made our way towards the Place De La Concorde where we got stuck in the crowd and the barriers near the 1km to go flag. We could go no further onto the Champs-Élysées and it was packed. We were about three rows back from the road barrier but eventually, with people moving on, we got to the front. We then stood in a relatively comfortable position, which soon became uncomfortouble, as the sun beat down unable to move if we wanted to keep our places.
It was the same formula as before, the caravan, the officials, the bikes, the team cars, but obviously there were the laps which got quicker and quicker. The atmosphere was electric and the bikes were really racing. You just couldn't see who was passing it was all so quick. I have a decent digital SLR camera which I just set to continuous shoot and pointed in the direction of the peleton as it zoomed passed. Only later could I pick out the Schleck brothers and then Sastre with Evans about 6 riders back.
A bit of a negative report after watching two stages? I suppose so but I enjoyed both experiences and would do it again although the family probably wouldn't.
To answer your question 'The best way to watch a stage?'
The actual finish is too busy as you can't move and wont see anything unless you get there early and stay in position for an uncomfortable length of time. Enroute is better and the mountain stage means they go past you a bit slower and you might see 'The' break where one of the leaders is dropped and the winner of the Tour is made. If you are watching on the roadside then take plenty of stuff to keep you comfy for an extended period of time and if you have got an English speaking radio, live TV coverage in English or a laptop and mobile internet so you can watch or listen to it developing as you wait for it to arrive then I would say that this would make the experience that much more exciting.